Destination Conflent, Mas Llossanes in the Figaro Magazine article
What a wonderful recognition to see Mas Llossanes cited in this report from Figaro Magazine , which pays tribute to the richness and authenticity of Conflent.
In the Pyrénées-Orientales, discover the Conflent region, weightless between reliefs and sheer gorges.
MAJOR REPORT - Between the Roussillon plain and the slopes
From Canigou stretches the Conflent. A true land of plenty, this
secret valley, crossed by the Têt, a raging river, offers
Mediterranean scrubland and wild mountain pastures punctuated by abbeys and hilltop villages, ideal for walking and meditation.
The flowering orchards of the village of Eus, a marvelous ephemeral spring spectacle. ERIC MARTIN
Leaving Perpignan under torrential rain, the departmental road 66 enters the Conflent territory in an explosion of pink. On each side of the road, peach trees in bloom form a guard of honor. In the mist spring, the Pink Valley , as the English call it lovers of the region, has a false air of Japanese countryside. the horizon looms Canigou, with its almost eternal snow. silhouette, although irregular and jagged, recalls the mountain sacred Japanese.
Equally revered, The Catalan Olympus dominates the region. We instinctively seek it out among the clay and sand chimneys of the organs of Ille-sur-Têt, small Pyrenean Cappadocia, surrounded by oaks and Aleppo pines. It rises in the detour of a bend, above a torrent, from which steam rises. The sulfurous water from its entrails gushed forth, boiling. Occitan onsens dot its slopes, secrets jealously guarded by the locals.
During the Belle Époque, the thermal establishments were numerous. Abandoned, some are no longer more than ruins overgrown with vegetation, others have prospered like the elegant baths of Molitg or those of Vernet, frequented in his time by Rudyard Kipling. In St. Thomas, we splash around in water at 37°C.
Around the pools, the fir trees have replaced the chestnut trees that lined the road a few kilometers below. Landscapes of scrubland and mountains overlap. Along the Têt Valley, griffon vultures, long dedicated to disappear, hover majestically.
A wild and preserved territory
From Collioure to Font-Romeu, we cross the Conflent without seeing it. However, Villefranche-de-Conflent, located in the upper part of the valley, was for centuries the strategic crossing point between France and Catalonia. Vauban made this fortress into pink marble, its most successful project. Mining town, when the iron of the Canigou was worth its weight in gold, the little citadel, fallen into a gentle torpor, comes alive at Café Le Canigou. This institution is run by the ineffable Joël Méné, volunteer firefighter and ardent defender of Catalan identity, with an accent that rolls like that of the first Minister Jean Castex, illustrious neighbor, came to drink a coffee when he was mayor of Prades.
Miniature Canadairs which decorate its bar recall the fragility of the Pyrenean ecosystem, threatened every summer by fires. As the crow flies, at the confluence of the Têt and the Carança River, rock walls rise up forming gorges of striking beauty. A path in the rock, dug into the 1940s to transport mining equipment, became a trail hike winding sometimes along the side of a cliff, sometimes on footbridges suspended in the void. We advance in a troubled silence by the murmur of the river below, admiring the lichens which color the gneiss and breathe the amber scent of cistus and the perfume sweet broom.
The Catalan Pyrenees attract enthusiasts like Thomas Dulac, high mountain guide, guardian for fifteen years of the Cortalets refuge, leading to the summit of Canigou. “ It is one of the few mountains still wild in France, not disfigured by ski lifts. Since the shutdown of the mines, its slopes have reforested naturally. There are places still untouched where you have the chance to get lost ,” rejoices this adventurer, who regularly climbs the Hoggar massif in the footsteps of Frison-Roche.
The orchard of starred chefs
If the reliefs are more accentuated to the north of the Têt valley, the Canigou foothills offer a succession of hills, suitable for growing fruit trees and the vine. At an altitude of 700 meters, in the town of Arboussols, The 11 hectares of Mas Llossanes are covered with mustard flowers straw yellow, natural fertilizer used by Dominique and Solenn Génot. walks among ancient grape varieties, punctuated by rocks and dolmens, before tasting, in the shade of the chestnut trees, a chasan of great finesse. In the plain, the silts of the Têt provide a breeding ground of excellence for rare citrus fruits.
Upon entering the greenhouses of the Schaller conservatory, the lushness of the trees, the fragrance tangy Buddha hands and caviar lemons evoke Instantly summer. Ducasse, Pic, Barbot, Troisgros come regularly shop among the 1000 varieties of citrus fruits cultivated by this couple of agricultural engineers. On the other side of the orchards rises a graceful pyramid dominated by a church. It is Eus, the sunniest village in France. Wandering down its narrow streets steep cobblestone streets lined with prickly pear trees, we can see the special energy of this balcony facing Canigou. Nuno de Matos is there was arrested twenty years ago and has not left since. This painter, also engineer and mountaineer, opens his home to travelers. “ Many come to walk but also to meditate, because there is a vibration particular which explains the importance of religious heritage on the territory . "
Weightless at 1000 meters above the Cady gorges, Saint-Martin-du-Canigou invites you to show humility. For a millennium, this eagle's nest has fascinated all those who have the courage to climb it. At sunset, lulled by the noise of the wind and the vespers bells, you have to be very insensitive not to feel such beauty. With its barrel vaults, Saint-Martin embodies the first southern Romanesque art. Its capitals in pink marble, reconstituted after a slow resurrection, recall those from another monastery located on the plain, about twenty kilometers away.
Sacred landscapes
In the middle of the peach trees and sheep, Saint-Michel-de-Cuxa has also had several lives. Stage important on the way to Santiago de Compostela, the abbey flourishing was dismantled during the French Revolution. Bought by a American collector at the beginning of the 20th century, his cloister is the centerpiece of The Cloisters museum in New York. Thanks to the resistance of the inhabitants and the monks, part of the columns was able to stay at the abbey. But for the Occitans, the most sacred site is Canigou. Every June 22, a troop climbs to the summit to relight the flame, carefully preserved in a hurricane lamp in Perpignan. Catalan delegations then came to collect it to light the Saint John fires.
Travel diary
Inquire
At the office of Conflent Canigó tourism (04.68.05.41.02; Tourisme-canigou.com), whose site is full of ideas for hikes, whitewater activities... complete with the experiences proposed by that of the department of Pyrenees-Orientales (04.68.51.52.53; Tourisme-pyreneesorientales.com).
Go there
From Perpignan, it takes 45 min by car to reach Marquixanes, entrance to the valley of Conflent, which ends at Fontpédrouse.
Our selection of accommodations
In Bélesta, at the gateway to Conflent, the Domaine Riberach (04.68.50.30.10; Riberach.com), a cooperative winery transformed into amazing eco-friendly hotel, has 18 contemporary rooms nestled in inside the old vats. Two locavore restaurants, a wine shop, a swimming pool and a spa make it an ideal stopover. from €200 per night, breakfast not included.
On a quiet street in Prades, Castell Rose
(06.71.73.54.92; Castellrose-prades.com) is an elegant house of
master in pink marble. The charming owners provide
5 cozy rooms. From €125 per night, including breakfast.
gargantuan lunch.
To discover Eus, we chose Casa Ilicia
(06.95.34.15.32; Casailicia.wordpress.com), the guest room
unmissable. Its owners, Claudia and Nuno de Matos, have
also a "vermouth shop" and a cactus garden at the top of the village.
The terrace offers a splendid view of Canigou. From €64
overnight stay, breakfast included.
Overlooking the thermal baths of Molitg-les-Bains, the Château de Riell ! (04.68.05.04.40; Chateauderiell.com), a member of Relais & Châteaux, is the 5-star Conflent. In the heart of a lush park, this Gothic folly houses 17 rooms, some with spectacular views of the sacred mountain. Between the gourmet restaurant and access to the thermal baths, Riell is a a destination in itself. From €180 per night, breakfast included.
Our good tables
Perched inside Eus, Un Xic de Tot (06.31.60.69.50), “a little bit of everything” in Catalan, is run by a mother and his daughter. This large terrace invites you to taste all the dishes of the menu, which changes according to the arrivals. Oysters with citrus fruits and ginger as well as wild herb rolls would have their place on a Michelin-starred menu. A gem! Around €35 per meal.
With its futuristic glass and steel architecture, El Taller (04.68.05.63.35; Bar-restaurant-el-taller.weebly.com) does not work unnoticed in the small village of Taurinya. The owners, 4 friends, create a friendly atmosphere and offer local cuisine Very good quality. From €38 for the menu.
It is in the heart of the citadel of Villefranche-de-Conflent that the most Catalan of the Narbonne residents officiates in his fiefdom, La Senyera
(04.68.96.17.65; La-senyera-restaurant.eatbu.com). Smile
communicative, Julien Blaya delights with gourmet cuisine and
family. Special mention for its chocolate Canigou, filled with yuzu
and sesame. From €36 per menu.
From May to September, the chef
transports its cuisine to Caillou, located on the banks of the Têt, in the heart of
Outdoor Nature Park, in Marquixanes.
On the heights of Vernet-les-Bains, Le Cortal (04.68.05.55.79; Bistrotlecortal.fr), former stable converted into a restaurant, magnifies exotic flavors. Chef and owner Abou Sow, alone in the kitchen, masterfully concocts dishes inspired by his native country, Senegal, but also by the region's products. Around €50 per person.
To see, to do
Climb to the top from Canigou accompanied by Marco Rollot (06.12.92.60.70; Canyoncanigou.fr), which will teach you how to overcome vertigo. From €350 for 4 people.
Go back up the spectacular Llech canyon, one of the most beautiful in the Pyrenees, with Outdoor Nature (04.68.05.72.12; Exterieur-nature.com): 2.5 hours rappelling, jumping and sliding in around twenty waterfalls. From €65 per person.
Treat yourself to a fragrant stroll among the rare citrus trees of the Schaller Conservatory (Agrumesbaches.com). €12 per person.
Taste and bring back
Enjoy a “Barbu” from Couvent (04.68.84.15.65; Boulangerie-lecouvent.com), bread made from ancient wheat flour with exceptional flavors and virtues (€9).
Soothe your bronchi with fir syrup from the Pyrenean mountain pastures, traditional recipe relaunched by Abies Lagrimus (04.68.22.60.85; Abieslagrimus.com). €13 the bottle.
Marvel at the Canigou by visiting Mas Llossanes (07.83.01.95.15; Masllossanes.fr). A high altitude vineyard cultivated using organic farming and Biodynamic. €10 per tour and from €11 per bottle of wine.
By Sarah Chevalley (text) and Eric Martin (photos), for Le Figaro Magazine
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